JL Insight04.03.26
When Fashion makes us suffer
IN SS27, LUREX WILL BE A MUST — BUT ITS DISCOMFORT WON’T
IN SS27, LUREX WILL BE A MUST — BUT ITS DISCOMFORT WON’T
“To be beautiful, you must suffer in lurex.” That seems to be the diktat of Spring/Summer 2027, which will mark the return of the world’s most famous metallic synthetic yarn to the runways.
Anyone who attended Milano Unica could hardly have missed it — “unique” seemed to be the ubiquitous keyword. Twills woven with lurex yarns, denim embellished with lurex inserts and embroidery, printed organzas highlighted with lurex details, tone-on-tone jacquards featuring metallic threads — and when it came to accessories, surprise surprise: tubular trims and shimmering ribbons with lurex and sequins. In short: lurex everywhere. So much so that I can almost feel the itch as I write.
Contrasting prints layered together, garments, colours and patterns superimposed, the metallic richness of jewellery paired with the airy fluidity of lurex georgette: everything in “Etro Flux” — the collection presented at last year’s Milan Fashion Week by Creative Director Marco De Vincenzo — was designed to amplify chromatic and textural maximalism. A harmonious and meticulously balanced textile-stylistic medley, perfectly aligned with the fashion trends of the upcoming season.
From oversized feather, plush or faux-fur pom-poms to boudoir lingerie worn visibly to inject even the most classic outfits with sophisticated sensuality; from evening dresses covered in fringes and beads inspired by the roaring 1920s to cascades of crinolines and military motifs that transport us into the cast of Bridgerton whenever we wish to forget a long day at the office… It is dazzling in every sense to observe that what unites SS26 fashion trends is the desire to shine beyond traditional codes, balancing romantic nods to the past with bold reinterpretations of the present. And with SS27 — fuelled by the renewed liaison between fashion and metallic fabric, spotlighted at Milano Unica and Pitti Filati — we can only expect even more radiant looks.
The horizon for our wardrobes over the next two spring/summer seasons is crystal clear. But how to overcome the scratchiness of this metallic foe remains — forgive the pun — quite the head-scratcher.
What comes to the rescue, like a sparkling anchor of salvation, can only be textile innovation that reimagines lurex as never before — giving us the freedom to be fashion lovers without becoming fashion victims.
Among the major international names in circular knitting, Italian company Jersey Lomellina stands out with a solution developed by its Research & Development department: Renew Luxe, a lurex fabric with a soft handfeel and sophisticated luminosity. Primarily designed for beachwear, it is equally suited for chic apparel collections.
The difference compared to other market offerings is substantial — and noticeable where it matters most: against the skin.
By inserting lurex threads between the horizontal ribs of an appealing ottoman structure, JL has created a knitted lurex fabric where the metallic shine is visible, but the roughness is not felt.
While an unexpectedly gentle feel is certainly Renew Luxe’s defining feature, its composition is equally compelling: 78% polyamide made from 100% regenerated pre- and post-consumer waste materials. This allows stylists and designers to reflect the understated yet theatrical elegance of upcoming trends with an increasingly responsible approach.
The answer to this fourth episode of Trendroom, then, is simple: if fashion obliges us to wear lurex, suffering is no longer mandatory — it’s merely optional.